DIY

Free Christmas Printable!

‘Tis the season of giving!  In that spirit, I sharing with you a fun {and free!} Merry & Bright  Christmas printable that you can use in your own home!Free Merry & Bright Christmas Printable

I printed the graphic at full size on regular computer paper and then trimmed it to fit in an 8″x10″ frame.

Free Christmas printable frame and displayed on a shelf

 

The frame is tucked away in my guest bedroom cabinet to help give the room a festive, holiday feel.

black cabinet shelves decorated for Christmas

 

You can download the graphic by clicking the picture below.  Simply save and print!  It’s that easy!

 

Those that subscribe to my blog posts via email will also find a selection of other Christmas printables in my Free Printable section.  Not a subscriber yet?  Click {HERE} to sign up, then check your email to confirm and receive your password.

 

To see the rest of the guest room all decorated for Christmas, stop by tomorrow for the full reveal when the week of home tours kicks off!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IKEA Hack – For a Built-In Look

When we redesigned our daughter’s room, we wanted her furniture to have the look of a built-in so that it had a “clean” look that utilized the entire wall and maximized the space in her room.  She also needed a large work surface for her design and sewing projects.  Unfortunately, we aren’t handy and so making the furniture wasn’t an option and our budget really only allowed for IKEA furniture, and so it was time for a little hack.

Caveat: When I say we aren’t handy, I really and truly mean we aren’t handy, so if we can do it, you can do it!  As with any project, use proper protective gear and equipment to ensure safety.

 

The measurements of her wall and her off-center window meant that a standard desk and dresser wouldn’t fit the space and still have a built-in look.  Instead, we decided to create our own work surface using two LINNMON table tops with MALM dressers as the base.

 

Step 1: Creating the Framework

We started with one six-drawer MALM dresser and one three-drawer, one on each side of the wall.  The MALM dresser is 19″ deep, but the LINNMON top is 23.625″, so we pulled the dressers away from the wall so that they would align with the top.  As a bonus, this provided extra storage behind the dressers for her work boards and also plugs and various cords.

 

Step 2: Securing the Top

Once the dressers were in place and leveled, we put one 78.75″ LINNMON top on and secured with screws to the dresser from underneath.   We then used a second LINNMON and cut to fit the remaining length.  We took the table top to a millwork shop to have it cut.  Given that it isn’t solid wood, it is critical that the saw be straight and sharp in order to not mangle the surface.  Ask them to do a practice cut before making your final cut to ensure it will have a clean, finished edge.

When securing the top to the dressers, keep in mind that the length of your screws needs less than the thickness of your dresser plus top so that the screw does not go through the top.  Also, use several clamps to hold the top securely in place while you screw the two pieces together.  {Poor hubby didn’t know I’d be sharing this pic!}

 

Step 3: Add Bookcases

Two BILLY bookcases anchored to the wall on top completed the look!  As a bonus, the BILLY bookcases are only 11″ deep, which is plenty deep for her books and knick-knacks, but not as deep as the LINNMON table top, leaving extra surface space in front on the shelves for her projects.  The BILLY bookcases also come standard with a cutout at the bottom.  While this cutout is meant to fit around a baseboard when sitting on the floor, it works perfectly to feed cords through on a desktop!

 

The total height of her work station is 32 1/8″, which is slightly taller than a standard desk which sits between 28″ – 30″.  To solve this issue and ensure she was still comfortable when working, we gave her a cute Lucite and fur adjustable desk so that she can raise herself up to the proper working height.

 

 

She now has a custom, oversized work surface plus nine drawers and bookshelves.  Perfect for our budding fashion designer!

 

To see more about this bedroom makeover, you can click {HERE}.

Teen Girl Bedroom Makeover Modern Style with Built-ins Around Window in Turquoise and White

 

 

We still have on our To Do list to add trim to the vertical spaces and crown moulding to the top to really give it a custom look, but for now, this is perfect for her and she loves her turquoise and white puffs that fill the top, so she’s enjoying her new space!

 

 

 

 

 

DIY French Farmhouse Beaded Chandelier

Lighting can be expensive, not just to buy it but also to have someone install it!  And just like other things in our homes, our lighting choices can become outdated or just not reflective of our current decorating style.  For a cost-effective solution, before you replace anything in your home, see if there’s a way you can update it to create the look you want!

Note: This post may contain affiliate links for your convenience.

Some of you might have noticed that my dining room chandelier has been through a couple of transitions since I’ve had this blog.  When we first moved in, my style was more Mediterranean, so the Rodeo Collection Round Twelve Light chandelier was a great option for our dining room.  Pretty, right?

{Available on Amazon.com}

 

Well, after a while, I decided it was too “heavy” looking and so to make it more delicate and give it a French flair, I added crystals.  You can find the full tutorial for adding crystals {HERE}.

French spring dining room

 

And now? Well, it looks like this!

 

Recently, I’ve been drawn toward the Farmhouse trend and so for the Fall season, decided to give my chandelier a more Farmhouse look with the addition of beads!  I’ve been loving the looks of beaded Farmhouse chandeliers like the one below from Target, so this was my inspiration.

 

This project was an easy and inexpensive way to not only change the look of the chandelier, but the dining room in general.

Supplies

  • Beads
  • Paint
  • Paint Brush
  • String
  • Scissors

Seriously, that’s it!  It really is that easy!

 

Step 1: Calculate Your # of Beads

I purchased 24mm wooden spacer beads from both Doreen’s Beads and Amazon.  Ultimately, for this size chandelier, it took almost 500 beads.  You’ll need to look at how many sections you want and how much drape you want each to have in order to calculate the total number needed.  I have 33 per section on the top of mine, and 18 per section on the bottom.

 

Step 2: Paint {Optional}

There are lots of colors to choose from, but I decided to go with plain wood.  What I didn’t realize with the batch I ordered from Doreen’s Beads is that they were lacquered, so I didn’t really like the look of them once they arrived {while less expensive than the ones from Amazon, these are no longer available}.  They were shinier and more yellow than I wanted.  Instead of returning, I decided to paint them.  Now, I wouldn’t really recommend this route, not because it’s difficult – because it isn’t – but it IS very time-consuming!  {Note, the beads from Amazon aren’t yellow or lacquered and are plain, unfinished wood.}

I used CeCe Caldwell Young Kansas Wheat chalk paint because it’s odorless and dries quickly, which meant I could sit and do this at the kitchen table while watching TV.  For each bead, I painted one end first and turned over to let it dry for 30 seconds or so.  Then I placed a wooden skewer inside the hole, which allowed me to tilt the bead and paint all sides and the top without putting my fingers on the wet paint!  When done, slide the skewer out and let dry.

 

 

Step 3: String

I chose to use brown 1mm wax cotton cord for this project for two reasons.  One, I needed a material that wouldn’t stretch and sag over time and that could be knotted.  Second, I chose brown so that it would blend with the bronze look of my chandelier.  I simply strung the beads on to pre-cut lengths.

For most areas, I was able to tie each side to the chandelier to create a draping effect.  At the bottom, though, I had a length of bead that was freely hanging.  The holes on these beads are quite large and I wasn’t able to make a giant knots, so instead, I double-backed through the last bead and then made a knot.  I then painted the cord that showed on the outside.

 

Step 4: Center Bead

When all was said and done, I decided to add larger beads along the outer edges and one large one hanging down from the center.  The outer beads are 2″ and the center is 3″.  These larger beads didn’t have holes and I didn’t trust myself with a drill, so I simply hot glued them on!!  {I keep waiting for that moment during a dinner party when a guest get bonked on the head with a falling bead!}

 

That’s it!  The total cost was $75, which seems like a lot for a craft project but it’s WAAAAY less expensive than replacing the chandelier!  And don’t worry….For those of you that liked the crystal version better, I saved them and can swap back at any time.  I love projects that aren’t permanent and can be changed over time, don’t you?!

 

 

 

 

 

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